OK it works. So for future reference this is what I did:
Turn on the unit (mine is an M5StickC with UIFlow 1.6.6 firmware) press the M5 button quickly after that to enter setup mode (my screen shows <code>) side button to get the Setup menu M5 again to select it Switch Mode M5 again side button to select APP side button to select '..' at top M5 to go back to previous menu side button to select Reboot M5 to rebootFrom now on whenever you turn it on the Stick will run boot.py and then main.py in the /flash directory.
If when it's so running you attach the device to a computer via the USB cable, you can interrupt whatever it is doing by starting Thonny and hitting ctrl-F2 (Stop/Restart Backend), which will bring up the MicroPython REPL prompt. Cool.