Solved, please see this post.

http://forum.m5stack.com/topic/343/i2c-scanner-working-on-cameras-grove-connector

@jimmy G21=SDA and G22=SCL on M5Stack,
G12 and G13 on camera (apparently)

@watson 在 M5camera supply. 中说：

Yes, it is. But be careful that you must ensure the supply of USB and GROVE must be common-ground and the supply can not be too high. Otherwise, the power chip of M5Camera will be burnt.

Ah, there in lies the problem,
I was going to use the USB to draw power from the laptop and the Grove to draw power from an auxiliary battery pack.

MKII (PSRAM) camera
Standby = 0.1A
connected = 0.14A 00592mah
5.18V
Running a lot cooler then the MKI

I don't have anything else to test so that's all I can give.
Measurements taken with a Keweisi branded usb test meter.

Look in your "downloads folder" (where ever you download files to)
You should see a strange file. When you open the file, there will be captured images in it.
I'm waiting on my MK2 camera (WROVER) to arrive to see what the difference in the 2 are.

@mamuesp
The Fire comes with a small leaflet in the box. Check the Schematic page for GPIO numbers of connected devices.

Yes, i have the same problem under win 8.1 64bit version. when including the file
http://www.m5stack.com/support/master/package_m5stack_index.json and trying to include this, an error message occurs: http://www.m5stack.com/support/master/package_m5stack_index.json Dateisignaturprüfung fehlgeschlagen. Datei ignoriert. Under win 8.1 64 bit vers. it is not possible to ignore the file verification.

@stoney 在 Have the camera, what now. 中说：

@ajb2k3

Huh ?

192.168.4.1/jpg_stream

Does not work

Then next post you say it works ? You are being confusing lol, you can edit the posts if you want..

Nope it doesn't work however, reading the source code that you linked to and a bit of probing, I found the other info but mine seems to have overheated and died.
I need to find someone to solder in some wires to bypass the usb>usart chip and I just cant get it to work.
Is it supposed to only draw 0.1A?
Just trying to work out why the esp32 is running hot.

Thanks for your help much appreciated.

Actually I managed to register over the weekend and login to the cloud IDE. But now it's not letting me login again. I guess there are some intermittent problems.

Andrew

@0x1abin The prebuilt firmware doesn't work for me either. I get this:

I (362) heap_init: Initializing. RAM available for dynamic allocation:
I (369) heap_init: At 3FFAE6E0 len 00001920 (6 KiB): DRAM
I (375) heap_init: At 3FFB9E48 len 000261B8 (152 KiB): DRAM
I (381) heap_init: At 3FFE0440 len 00003BC0 (14 KiB): D/IRAM
I (387) heap_init: At 3FFE4350 len 0001BCB0 (111 KiB): D/IRAM
I (394) heap_init: At 400907AC len 0000F854 (62 KiB): IRAM
I (400) cpu_start: Pro cpu start user code
I (194) cpu_start: Starting scheduler on PRO CPU.
I (0) cpu_start: Starting scheduler on APP CPU.
E (306) camera_demo: Camera probe failed with error 0x20001

Faulty device?

I ordered a replacement screen from the M5Stack store on Aliexpress.
New TFT display + bezel arrived 15 days later.

Installation was reasonably straight forward.

You'll need:

Soldering iron - I'm using old faithful Jaycar Duratech TS-1554 20W/130W Solder - I'm using cheap 0.5mm Sn 63 / Pb 37 / Flux 1.2 Flux - I use a pen T6 Torx screwdriver - I have one of these sets

Steps:

Remove bottom battery/breakout board 2x T6 Torx screws hold the PCB in place Slide speaker out (careful of it's thin wires - I broke mine) Slide PCB sideways and lift slightly. The display ribbon cable prevents it from being fully removed Push the display + bezel from behind to detach it from the case Remove the bezel from the broken TFT Rotate the PCB 45 degrees and remove from plastic shell, to avoid damaging it Flip TFT 90 degrees revealing its flexible cable Detach the TFT by applying a little flux + solder and gently prying while heating the pins with a soldering iron Apply flux to the solder pads and stroke each with a soldering iron to create a smooth finish. There should already be enough solder remaining, if not, add a tiny bit more and stroke smooth Place the new TFT over the pins and precisely hold in place with your thumb while applying power to check the display works Solder pin 1, check alignment and adjust if need be Solder the remaining pins. Get some bright light and a magnifying glass and make sure none of the pins are bridged. Or use continuity mode on your multimeter to check adjacent pins Insert the PCB + new TFT back into the plastic case, slide PCB sideways and attach Torx screws. I accidentally detached one of the speaker wires earlier, so with the new TFT flipped out of the way, resoldered the speaker wire. In doing so, I detached the other speaker wire! So I swapped both for new thinker wire, salvaged from a Dupont ribbon cable. The wire can't be too think as it needs to sit between the TFT and PCB. Reseat the speaker Sit the TFT in place and remove the protective cover (green tab) being careful not to touch it with your oily fingers Remove the sticker from the back of the bezel and insert the 3 plastic buttons Attach the bezel onto the plastic case and press firmly Plug in USB and boot Press 3 push buttons to cycle through RGB colours It works!

@jpilarski take a look at the I2C hub from Seeed; only problem is how many milliamps your I2C sensors need. My multichannel gas sensor (from Seeed) cannot run on the bus while the BME280 is on at the same time. btw addresses are configured properly.